While I credit rye as starting my obsession with seeds, amaranth is the grain that pushed me to learn as much as I could about grains. This is partly because the first time I cooked made amaranth recipes, I was perplexed. Amaranth didn't act or taste like any grain I'd worked with before. From this moment, I set off to learn as much as possible about all grains. Especially how their not-so-tiny personalities shape the flavor and textures of meals.
Amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus), a plant grown for both grain and greens, originates in South and Central America, but a clear domestication point is unclear. However, the seeds traveled throughout the continents, becoming a staple for consumption and religious ceremonies, most notably by the Aztecs.
As amaranth expanded outwards, it made its way to Eastern Asia. Researchers initially thought amaranth might have had a secondary domestication event in Asia. However, given genetic markers, it appears more likely that amaranth was part of early trading between continents. Amaranth has also become a staple in the Caribbean and African cuisine, most likely through the Atlantic trade of enslaved people.
Amaranth is from the same family as quinoa, Amaranthacea, and includes a variety of flowering herbs, shrubs, and greens (such as spinach). The stems of the plants have panicles and clusters of tiny flowers that produce the seeds. From there, the seeds easily dislodge from the plant (which can make large-scale harvesting difficult but a bit of a boon for home growers).
While there are over 50 species of amaranth, only a dozen or so are cultivated for consumption. Of those species, a handful are cultivated for their seeds. The remaining varieties are grown for leaves that cook similarly to other greens. Amaranth is a drought-tolerant plant that, in some parts of the world, is considered a weed and can be quite the show in the garden as the flowers pop in colors of red, oranges, and even a light shade of green.
Once the flowers have had their time, they go through a harvest, drying, and finally, a seed harvest. Amaranth seeds are primarily ivory, with a few black seeds here and there.
Beyond its fantastic versatility, amaranth packs a solid nutritional punch. High in protein, these little seeds contain all nine essential amino acids, making amaranth a complete protein. Beyond protein, amaranth rounds out with fiber, iron, and minerals.
I always think amaranth is a bit funny because even though it's not in the grass, it often has strong notes of grass and an underlying earthiness that can be a bit strong. When working with the flavor of amaranth, it's helpful to think about what goes well with beets, chard, and spinach (all members of the amaranth family).
Amaranth has higher amounts of amylopectin starch. This allows the grain to cook into a range of textures. With less water, amaranth cooks into grain akin to sticky rice: no individual grains but easily eaten with a fork. With more water, amaranth takes on a creamy, porridge consistency (like this favorite of my amaranth recipes).
Beyond simply cooking, amaranth can also be dry-heated until the tiny grains pop. This is the most popular application for amaranth in cereals and desserts, as once popped, the grains require no further cooking. My favorite way to use amaranth? Alegría, a Mexican popped amaranth candy.
Made from grinding whole amaranth seeds, amaranth flour requires no sifting and is an excellent gluten-free flour. Given amaranth's more assertive personality, I like to pair it with other types of flour to balance the flavor.
If grinding amaranth flour at home, go slow. The tiny grain can occasionally clog certain models of flour grinders.
Whole amaranth seeds are passed through a flaker to create rolled amaranth. This is excellent in amaranth recipes for baked goods or made into porridges, such as oatmeal. I like adding amaranth flakes to oatmeal for a boost of nutrients and a bit of extra creaminess.
Amaranth greens are often used like spinach, as they tend to be delicate and require little cooking. The larger and older the leaves are, the more robust their flavor will be, and I prefer to use them in cooked applications. The smaller, younger leaves can also be cooked, but I enjoy using fresh ones in salads.
Whole amaranth is often found in stores with bulk bins of grains available or pre-bagged from companies such as Ancient Grains and Bob's Red Mill.
Grains are best stored in airtight containers in a cool place for up to a year in the freezer or 6 months in the pantry. Flour is best stored in the freezer for up to 6 months. If the grains or flour smell rancid when you open the bag, toss them and buy fresh.
Preheat a dry, 12" skillet with a lid to around 220˚F to 230˚F. (This is a perfect excuse for picking up an infrared thermometer!) Without a thermometer, hover your hand above the skillet and feel for a solid amount of heat. Or, use the water test: flick a couple of water droplets on the skillet. They should evaporate immediately.
Working quickly, add 1 tablespoon (12 g) of uncooked amaranth to the preheated skillet. Immediately place a lid on the skillet. Swirl/shake the pan until the amaranth begins to pop; remove it from heat and continue to shake until the popping slows. The whole process should take less than a minute.
Transfer the popped amaranth to a bowl and repeat the process for as much popped amaranth as desired. One tablespoon of dried amaranth equals about ⅓ cup (10g) of popped amaranth.
Sources: Whole Grain Council (and sources linked within their article), Encyclopedia of Food Science and Nutrition, Technology of Functional Cereal Products
